September 24, 2011 at 3:38 am As Dan said, the amp above is whats known by amp guys as the ’94 twin’, infact Fender used to call it that aswell. It was part of the pro range designed by Paul Rivera before he did his own thing. It is a very differenent animal to the ‘evil twin’ which had the distinct red knobs. It is also very different to its replacement model. The ’94 Twin’ is one of the most feature laden amps Fender ever produced, it has dual input, clean/gain and drive channels with switchable bright modes and presence control, full eq controls for each channel, valve driven long spring reverb, valve buffered rack effects loop, pre out/power in loop, mono/stereo 4/8/16 ohm output with series/parallel switch. The clean is pure blackface, the drive was aimed at early boogie territory. November 28, 2011 at 6:36 am I bought a Evil Twin i 1999-2000 and I must say it is the best amp I have ever owned.
I have only had to replace some tubes and the reverb tank in twelve years. I consider these items consumable like tires and spark plugs.
The tubes would have to been replaced on any tube amp and most all reverb tanks fail eventually. The amp sounds great and has many pro features. I will keep her forever. Avoid the model with red knobs that loks otherwise similar.
They are nothing but trouble. April 17, 2012 at 7:01 am Thanks, Blakestyger, good eyes. Yes, my 1999 model sez “Made in USA” as well BTW, because this is a hefty amp to lift, I took out the electronics and made a custom head cab and mounted it in it. Looks original.
I also made two other/more ext cabs to make travel/moving it mucho easier. Now my stack can be any combination of. A single 2X12 cab.
TWO 2X12 cabs. One 2X10 with two compression horns, and any of the cabs can be speakers- in- series for 16 ohms two speakers in stereo for 8 ohms per side. Or speakers in parallel for 4 ohms. And those extra jacks on the rear allows for many variations. SWEEEEET AMP. October 24, 2012 at 1:06 pm Don’t buy the one with the button style bright switch, it is much deeper (the cabinet) and its cheap sounding. The actual 1994 models, which are rare, have a push/pull bright switch, a cabinet that is thinner by about 1 3/4 of an inch (the measurement from the front of the amplifier to the rear)it also has a much better gain channel and speakers.
They are $1000 used CDN, the new one is something like $1700 CDN and I’ve played one (and I own a 1994) and they are lame If you think its an “Evil Twin” also, you are wrong. Correctly, a person later in the thread identifies this amplifier correctly as the Red Knob Twin and its only Evil because its a bandaid and never functions properly. It is too powerful, too loud, hard to tweak and barky. The 1994 ProTube TwinAmp is simply put a properly voiced Mesa Mark IV with a blackface clean channel, which is a serious rig for blues, rhythm guitar in a rock band, and most metal (notwithstanding the ludicrous gain stages used in Death Metal etc.these can be achieved through power attenuation, an equalizer in the tube driven effects loop or through the use of a treble booster, tube screamer or any combination of effects pedals in front of the input channel.
I use a wah pedal for a boost. March 30, 2013 at 12:34 pm The one I have looks just like this one but under Twin Amp it says Professional Tube Amplifier Made in U.S.A. (instead of Fender Musical Instruments). I checked the quality assurance sticker on the chassis and it looks like it Says CHS written across both lines and then either a zp or zd written on the second line. This doesn’t make any sense as to all the info I am finding on the internet as to what the production year is.
I love this amp but yes it weighs a ton so lately I am using my Traynor YCV40 for jamming here and there for much easier transport. Any idea what years this sucker is? I know I bought it around 2002 and or so from Long and Macquade.
March 20, 2014 at 10:35 am I just got mine (the ’94 Twin Amp with two inputs, not the one input replacement) at this vintage music/guitar shop here in Dallas called Shake Rag for $850, which is on the pricier side of things. I usually see them on eBay for $600 – $900, but the reason I’m OK with paying a bit more is because I was able to pay for it on layaway. I’m assuming these amps aren’t in the $1000-$2000 range because they’re from the 90’s and aren’t as vintage as all the Fender classics. They are an excellent, affordable, and versatile option for guitarists who want a performance level tube amp with the classic Fender sound but on a relative budget. I play mostly Post-Punk, Post-Hardcore, and Indie Rock, so the clean and gain channels are absolutely ideal. I’d actually recommend this over a Twin Reverb unless you only want clean and loud.
March 17, 2014 at 9:05 am Yes this thread is very old but I just couldn’t resist posting a comment. I own this amp. There has been so much confusion over what amp is the “Evil” Twin. I have done quite a bit of research on the subject. This amp, the ’94 PR266 Twin Amp, is the official “evil” Twin, it is a black face, and has been correctly labelled by Ampwares. I suppose you could say the red knob Twin is also an evil Twin as so many people call it that. The 94 Twin was refered to as the Evil Twin in some of the Fender liturature.
This was never the case with any of the other Twins. People incorrectly associated the nomenclature “evil” to the Red Knob because of it’s red knobs. It doesn’t matter if you associate the Red Knob to the label evil but you shouldn’t try to correct people who call the 94 Twin the evil Twin as technically they are more correct than you are. April 24, 2014 at 4:31 pm Fender website said;; All Fender amplifiers manufactured from 1990 to the present include a date code, printed on the quality assurance (QA) sticker on the back of the amp chassis.
This black-and-silver sticker contains several lines for “sign-offs” on completion of sound and electrical testing. The final line contains a date code of two printed or handwritten letters denoting the amplifier’s production date by year (the first letter) and month (the second letter). In the table below, for example, a “CE” date code indicates a production date of May 1992. YEAR MONTH 1990 A January A 1991 B February B 1992 C March C 1993 D April D 1994 E May E 1995 F June F 1996 G July G 1997 H August H 1998 I September I 1999 J October J 2000 K November K December L i think, the error of many people is that; they read the serial number CR-XXXXXX it is mentioned; on the quality assurance (QA) sticker on the back of the amp chassis. This black-and-silver sticker contains several lines for “sign-offs” on completion of sound and electrical testing.
Sometimes the sticker is not present in the amp chassis, sometimes it is inside the cab just up to tube label left side when you see of rear my twin amp is the same model and this sticker is inside the cabinet. August 15, 2014 at 9:40 am According to Fender, the serial number “system” started from 1994 on, not 1990. Also, everyone who says their serial number is CR-XXXXXX can’t be misreading it. I am looking at a “Twin”, black face, with 2 inputs, 6 knobs in the first section, 5 in the second, and 3 in the last. It too has a serial number staring with “CR-XXXXXX”. Fender says that the fist letter is the year, and the 2nd letter the month.
Well then, Fender has some more explaining to do because that doesn’t work. CR would be what? It’s not a misread, it’s right there on the sticker. Or, does the first letter indicate month and the 2nd indicate year? If so, then CR would be C=March, and R=2007. 2000 is K, 01-L, 02-M, 03-N, 04-O, 05-P, 06-Q, 07-R, etc.
Somethings not right with what Fender claims, or somethings not right with how serial numbers were assigned. From what years was the ’94 Twin made? What year did the “Pro Tube Twin” come out? Did it replace the ’94 style Twin?
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Also, when the “Pro Tube Twin” was out the ’65 TRRI was also out. August 15, 2014 at 9:55 am UPDATE: I called Fender directly and gave them my CR-XXXXXX serial number.
The Fender rep said that at times Fender serial numbers change meaning. Hey, no surprise there.
He looked up the serial number and tells me that “CR” is the code for manufacture location, which in this case is in California, USA. And, it is an amp of the “’94 Evil Twin” design. The numbers behind the CR gave him the month and date. For my “Twin” it was built in November of 1999, and again, the serial number starts with “CR-“, with the numbers 263701. The whole serial number is CR-263701.
Unfortunately, I don’t know how those numbers related to month and year of manufacture. But, it does appear that “CR” may at least indicate that it is an “Evil Twin” design.
November 27, 2014 at 5:26 pm I am also having several problems finding information about my The Twin. The 1st is the date of production of my Fender “The Twin” aka “The Evil Twin”. The one with the Red Chicken Head Push/Pull pots. It is a Blackface, Labeled “The Twin” on both the front and the back. Listed as being made in Brea, CA.
Now the serial # Listed makes no sense at all. I have read this forum and tried using the listed guide for dating the amp, but that doesn’t work. The Serial # is LO-72784!! Nowhere is there any labeling with “CR” in it. Its Size is 26″ across, 20″ Tall (minus the Caster Height) and 10 3/4″ Deep. It IS very heavy, about 70 lbs sounds about right. All the Pots are Are Red Chicken Head shaped Push/Pull Pots.
Except for the Volume, Gain, Bass & Reverb. And unlike “The Twin” shown in the picture about.
The panel is completely different and looks like all the pictures of The Twins with the Red Chicken Knobs.The first 4 pots Volume, (Treble, Mid which are Push/Pull) Bass. Followed by 4 input jacks, above all 4 inputs it says “Use Inputs for Channel 1 & Channel 2 Dual Channel Mode”, directly underneath that the 1st 2 jacks it says “Channel 1 Inputs”. Underneath the 1st 2 inputs it says “Use these inputs only for Switching Channel Mode”. The 2nd 2 jacks are listed for Channel 2 Inputs. Below the jacks is says, “Use These Channels Only For Parallel Channel Mode”.
The next Pots are Gain (Not a Push/Pull), Treble Mid, Bass, Presence, Volume (all Push/Pulls) A channels Select Slider Switch for Channel 1, Both, Channel 2. Followed by the Last (non Push/Pull) pot for Reverb. Then a High/Low Power Switch, Standby/On, then lastly a Power On/Off Switch. Now, I literally picked this amp up for a song. All it needed was new power tubes. But I have since replaced all the tubes. It has (5)12AX7’s,(2)12AT7’s & (4) 6L6GC’s.
The back Panel has 3 1/4″ jacks, a Pre-Amp Out, Pre-Amp In, Pre-Amp Thru. Then a Slider Switch Labeled Loop Level Slide Switch with 3 Positions, (Low -16dbv, Med-7dbv, High +4dbv). The Low & Med are underscored “Guitar”.
It also has a Balanced XLR Line Out @600ohms (great For plugging directly into a soundboard! Along with 4 more jacks for the Foot Switch. Then the Speakers, An External Parallel, External Main, External Series. Followed by a 3 Position Slide Switch for the Speaker Impedence Settings of 4, 8, 16 ohms. Including in the back panel are 2 (screwdriver Adjustment Pots) for Output Bias Adjustment (for the Tubes) & Output Balance Adjustment. Now, since I have described just about everything I can about this amplifier. Is there anyone who can tell me more about it?
Like when was it made? And anything else that would be helpful. This Amp is SUPER Loud! And I have never had it above 2!! In Clean mode it sounds as good as any Fender Tube Amp out there, super crystal clear, sparkling highs & and a nice deep mid & low sound. But In order to really let this “monster out of its cage” on channel 2.
I have to use a Sholz Power-Soak! Which I then dial down to 1 notch above headphone level Then you can really turn this amp up to about 4 to 6, depending on the size of the room and whether you want to become deaf or not! The Power-soak really lets channel 2 Shine!!!
When it is plugged in and the volume turned up,in the Pre-Amp Really comes through, the 2nd Gain stage (which is what made this amp so popular when it first came out) literally will transform the amp into any “Boutique Amp” you want!! This amp can sound like any amp you want it too. From a Marshall to a Boogie, to anything in between. And because of its massive power it can run any 4X12 out there with plenty of power to spare. This amp is really “one of a kind” and I have never heard any amp like it!! It is absolutely amazing!!!
So any help that anybody can give me about this amp would be greatly appreciated! AS I would like to sell it, as it doesn’t really fit my playing style. I have my eye on a Mesa Boogie Mark V Combo! Which will suit all my needs with its own 8 switch foot switch for my Prog-Rock style. So, I welcome any comments about this amp. I hope you can answer some of these questions. Is it worth $1k or more?
Or anything else I should know? Sincerely, Jay. February 8, 2015 at 11:12 am Ytsejam777, I am a fairly new owner of a Fender Twin (“Twin Amp”) myself. I also love this amp and I am rebuilding my pedalboard around it to use all the sounds of the channels. Both “The Twin” and the “Twin Amp” are bad ass but not one and the same.
The “Twin Amp” referred to mostly in this thread is the amp AKA as the “Evil Twin”. The link to that Twin Amp manual is. The link to “The Twin” manual (yours) is. You sound like you already have the manual though.
At any rate, I think these amps are both worth used $700-$900. I do like the Twin Amp better because it has basically three switchable channelschannel one has clean and switchable to add gain and than channel two is separate with its own gain. The channels all sound awesome. I like the three levels of gain with no stomp boxes involved. I also have played with an external master volume to allow to crank up the channels a bit. I can’t really tell you anything more about your amp that you haven’t already mentioned but I will mention how I am looking at setting this up.
I have an MXR univibe/chorus (to add slight texture to a otherwise very linear tone) and Dunlop dual inductor wah in front and an EQ and delays in the loop. The amp reverb only like 1 sounds mostly natural to me. Pretty minimal and sounds pretty awesome.
Mostly matter of taste but I think the added EQ at least is essential. December 17, 2015 at 4:06 pm I’ll add my 2 cents to old thread since I am the original and only owner of a PR266 p n 049049 SN 273704, I believe it was made in 2001. There is no Made in U.S.A. Printed under power light and it says Professional Tube Amplifier vs. Fender Musical Instruments. The manual shows the Made in U.S.A. There is no date code in my amp, just the initialed inspection sticker and the label for Corona CA.
Noting the tube layout, part number, and it has some signed mark but I can’t tell what it is. FWIW, I believe the CR in the serial number stands for Corona not California as TT mentioned. From what I’ve read this (94 Twin, PR266) was the Evil Twin even though many believe is was the red knobbed version. It’s heavy and LOUD, I’ve been trying to rehome it for awhile, but I haven’t been trying too hard because I like it.
I may retube it soon with some JJ’s from eurotubes. October 10, 2016 at 9:18 pm I have to Agree with TT, RL & Joe. I have just purchased an ‘Evil Twin’ PR266 p n 049049 SN 260xxx (several digits ‘lower’ than TT’s ’99 model) which would put it’s year somewhere between ’95 & ’99. I have also read elsewhere that Paul Rivera designed the E45/PR266 circuit in the late 80’s, so this would appear to be of the Paul Rivera design also. My twin looks identical to the picture above on the Ampwares page, and has the 2 inputs, as well as the 6, 5, 3 knobs on the blackface. Again, there is sooo much conflicting info out there I’m not sure what to take as ‘Law’ though i have given all of this info to Fender and hoping for an answer soon. I’m not too fussed on whether this twin is ‘Evil’ or not, but I would like to know; – Year of Manufacture (also how to tell this from serial) – If it is definitely of Paul Rivera design – What contemporary 2nd Hand retail value is in $US (though mine is located in Australia and is 240v).
For PrintShop Mail 6.0.2 only The DirectSmile plug-in allows connectivity between PrintShop Mail Version 6 and DirectSmile Creator Pro 3.21 and higher. Users of PrintShop Mail can integrate image personalization in their workflow and gain numerous benefits. Once the plug-in is installed, the DirectSmile icon will be visible when launching PrintShop Mail. By clicking on this icon, an image box will be drawn on the grid. By double clicking on this image box, a DirectSmile Wizard will open.
This wizard searches the local network for the DirectSmile Creator Pro version and existing schemes and image sets. PrintShop Mail Plug-ins: 4 / 6.
DirectSmile 2.0.4. For PrintShop Mail 6.1 only Requires OL Care that was valid at May 2008 The DirectSmile plug-in allows connectivity between PrintShop Mail Version 6 and DirectSmile Creator Pro 3.21 and higher. (it is advised to use version 3.50 rev 129 or later). Users of PrintShop Mail can integrate image personalization in their workflow and gain numerous benefits. Once the plug-in is installed, the DirectSmile icon will be visible when launching PrintShop Mail. By clicking on this icon, an image box will be drawn on the grid.
By double clicking on this image box, a DirectSmile Wizard will open. This wizard searches the local network for the DirectSmile Creator Pro version and existing schemes and image sets. PrintShop Mail Plug-ins: 5 / 6. OLA plug-in 1.2.
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Honestly I've been watching RvBs story based (instead comedy based) seasons, and watching fights. I Honestly don't get where RWBY being a lot stronger (Across the combat spectrum) comes from. The RvB characters are ragdolling men and women in half ton suits, casually buleley timing, moving fast enough disappear (In special circumstances). While RWBY maybe faster, the combat speeds of both verses seem fairly evenly matched.
Can you please explain me why RWBY is treated so powerful. Obviously Tex is gonna lose, Qrows Semblance exasperates Tex's nature. But in terms actually physical combat they're fairy evenly matched. How about the fact Amber created the storm, and moved her hand, giving Mercury and Emerald plenty of prep time. Later on during that same fight, they're hit by frozen leaves, and a bolt of magic.
4610 tf6 driver 4610 tf6 driver Simple Upgrades The 4610-1NR uses the same power supply and cables as the matshita ujda330 driver. So that you never lose track of. IBM Information on Printers from Info. Print Solutions Company and IBM Printing Systems This document contains information on the capabilities that are supported on. Ibm thermal printer 4610-TF6 driver for windows xp - IBM SureMark Printer TF6 Thermal question. Jan 05, 2015 driver IBM printer 4610 suremark for windows xp driver IBM printer 4610 suremark for windows xp - IBM SureMark Printer TF6 Thermal question. Aug 31, 2017 IBM 4610 Printer Driver 2.5. No specific info about version 2.5. Please visit the main page of IBM 4610 Printer Driver on Software Informer. 4610-tf6 driver xp torrent.
So unless those are Lightning plus speed, then again no. Ive read the calcs. They're based on upscaling a regular Raven/Crow to nevermore size. Problem, the Nevermore would have to be exponentially lighter when scaled to achieve lift. Meaning that the kinetic energy from simply flying is dramatically lower then what those calcs say. She minpulated storm.
There was lightning crackling through the clouds, building up to her throwing her hand at them (at which point they dodged). Classic example of aim dodging. In order to find out the energy of something weight and speed need to be taken into account (Force (Enrgy of the hit) equal mass (Nevermore) times acceleration (How fast it was going)). If you don't understand a basis mathematical then don't try debating against it.
The Formula they used to figure out the force of the nevermore was simple. First average weight of its IRL equivalent (Either Raven or crow) Multiply said weight by the size of Nevermore heres where they mess up first they used some fictious speed (Above the sound barrier even though nothing the Nevermore did is that fast) Used this massive over weight (Like I said in my last comment The Square cube law doesn't work with animals because they need to be lighter to achieve similar results). All added up to give this over the top energy result (The force of it flying into the tower).
Welcome to BleepingComputer, a free community where people like yourself come together to discuss and learn how to use their computers. Using the site is easy and fun. As a guest, you can browse and view the various discussions in the forums, but can not create a new topic or reply to an existing one unless you are logged in. Other benefits of registering an account are subscribing to topics and forums, creating a blog, and having no ads shown anywhere on the site. Or read our to learn how to use this site. Hello and welcome to Bleeping Computer We apologize for the delay in responding to your request for help.
Here at Bleeping Computer we get overwhelmed at times, and we are trying our best to keep up. Please note that your topic was not intentionally overlooked. Our mission is to help everyone in need, but sometimes it takes just a little longer to get to every request for help. No one is ignored here.
If you have since resolved the original problem you were having, we would appreciate you letting us know. If not please perform the following steps below so we can have a look at the current condition of your machine. If you have not done so, include a clear description of the problems you're having, along with any steps you may have performed so far. Upon completing the steps below another staff member will review and take the steps necessary with you to get your machine back in working order clean and free of malware. If you have already posted a DDS log, please do so again, as your situation may have changed. Use the 'Add Reply' and add the new log to this thread. Thanks and again sorry for the delay.
Download random's system information tool (RSIT) by random/random from and save it to your desktop. Double click on RSIT.exe to run RSIT. Click Continue at the disclaimer screen. Once it has finished, two logs will open. Please post the contents of both log.txt (. Hi, Welcome to Bleeping Computer. My name is m0le and I will be helping you with your log.
Please subscribe to this topic, if you haven't already. You can subscribe by clicking the Options box to the right of your topic title and selecting Track This Topic. Please avoid installing/uninstalling or updating any programs and attempting any unsupervised fixes or scans. This can make helping you impossible. Please reply to this post so I know you are there.
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The forum is busy and we need to have replies as soon as possible. If I haven't had a reply after 3 days I will bump the topic and if you do not reply by the following day after that then I will close the topic. Once I receive a reply then I will return with your first instructions. Hi dougd, There may be something here.
Let's scan some more. We Need to check for Rootkits with RootRepeal. Usmle world 2007 download qbank. Download RootRepeal from the following location and save it to your desktop. Open on your desktop.
Click the tab. Click the button. Check all seven boxes:. Push Ok. Check the box for your main system drive (Usually C:), and press Ok. Allow RootRepeal to run a scan of your system. This may take some time.
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Once the scan completes, push the button. Save the log to your desktop, using a distinctive name, such as RootRepeal.txt. Include this report in your next reply, please. Next Please save file to your desktop.
Click on Start-Run, and copy-paste the following command (the bolded text) into the 'Open' box, and click OK. '%userprofile% desktop win32kdiag.exe' -f -r When it's finished, there will be a log called Win32kDiag.txt on your desktop.
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Please open it with notepad and post the contents here. Finally let's run MBAM to see if anything pops out Please download and save it to your desktop. Make sure you are connected to the Internet. Double-click on mbam-setup.exe to install the application or, if you are using Vista, right-click and select Run As Administrator on mbam-setup.exe to install the application. When the installation begins, follow the prompts and do not make any changes to default settings. When installation has finished, make sure you leave both of these checked:. Update Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware.
Launch Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware. Then click Finish. MBAM will automatically start and you will be asked to update the program before performing a scan. If an update is found, the program will automatically update itself. Press the OK button to close that box and continue.
If you encounter any problems while downloading the updates, manually download them from and just double-click on mbam-rules.exe to install. On the Scanner tab:. Make sure the ' Perform Full Scan' option is selected. Then click on the Scan button. If asked to select the drives to scan, leave all the drives selected and click on the Start Scan button. The scan will begin and ' Scan in progress' will show at the top. It may take some time to complete so please be patient.
When the scan is finished, a message box will say ' The scan completed successfully. Click 'Show Results' to display all objects found'.
Click OK to close the message box and continue with the removal process. Back at the main Scanner screen, click on the Show Results button to see a list of any malware that was found. Make sure that everything is checked, and click Remove Selected.
When removal is completed, a log report will open in Notepad. The log is automatically saved and can be viewed by clicking the Logs tab in MBAM. Copy and paste the contents of that report in your next reply and exit MBAM. Note: If MBAM encounters a file that is difficult to remove, you may be asked to reboot your computer so it can proceed with the disinfection process.
Regardless if prompted to restart the computer or not, please do so immediately. Failure to reboot normally (not into safe mode) will prevent MBAM from removing all the malware. MBAM may make changes to your registry as part of its disinfection routine. If you're using other security programs that detect registry changes, they may alert you after scanning with MBAM. Please permit the program to allow the changes. Please copy (Ctrl+C) and paste (Ctrl+V) the following text in the quote to Notepad. Save it as 'All Files' and name it Win32.bat Please save it on your desktop ( IT MUST BE NEXT TO win32kdiag.exe ).
@Echo Off CD%dp0 If exist '%userprofile% desktop Win32kDiag.txt' del /q '%userprofile% desktop Win32kDiag.txt' If not exist win32kdiag.exe (@Echo win32kdiag.exe File not found '%userprofile% desktop Win32kDiag.txt'&&Goto End) win32kdiag.exe -f -r del /q%0:End '%userprofile% desktop Win32kDiag.txt' del /q%0Double click on Win32.bat When it's finished, there will be a log called Win32kDiag.txt on your desktop. Please open it with notepad and post the contents here.
Hi m0le, I would like to apologize for my mistake. I overlooked where you posted for me to download the win32kdiag.exe. After going back and re-reading what you posted I was able to download it. Not knowing that you were in the process of responding to my post, I edited my previous post with the information you asked for. I went ahead and ran the win32kdiag.exe and this is the contents of the win32kdiag.txt Running from: win32kdiag.exe Log file at: C: Documents and Settings Dad Desktop Win32kDiag.txt Removing all found mount points. Attempting to reset file permissions. WARNING: Could not get backup privileges!
Searching 'C: WINDOWS'. I did wonder if you'd missed the download link. I didn't want to say so I gave you a batch to check. After all that, the log was clean There's definitely rootkit activity traces so we will now try and stop any bad processes and run Combofix, which will give us an idea of what our next step is.
Download and Run RKill Please download RKill by Grinler from one of the 4 links below and save it to your desktop. Before we begin, you should disable your anti-malware softwares you have installed so they do not interfere RKill running as some anti-malware softwares detect RKill as malicious.
Please refer to if you are not sure how. Double-click on Rkill on your desktop to run it. (If you are using Windows Vista, please right-click on it and select Run As Administrator). A black screen will appear and then disappear.
Please do not worry, that is normal. This means that the tool has been successfully executed. If nothing happens or if the tool does not run, please let me know in your next reply Then Please download ComboFix from one of these locations:.
IMPORTANT!!! Save ComboFix.exe to your Desktop making sure you rename it comfix.exe. Disable your AntiVirus and AntiSpyware applications, usually via a right click on the System Tray icon. They may otherwise interfere with our tools. ( Click on to see a list of programs that should be disabled. The list is not all inclusive.). Double click on Combofix.exe & follow the prompts.
As part of it's process, ComboFix will check to see if the Microsoft Windows Recovery Console is installed. With malware infections being as they are today, it's strongly recommended to have this pre-installed on your machine before doing any malware removal. It will allow you to boot up into a special recovery/repair mode that will allow us to more easily help you should your computer have a problem after an attempted removal of malware. Follow the prompts to allow ComboFix to download and install the Microsoft Windows Recovery Console, and when prompted, agree to the End-User License Agreement to install the Microsoft Windows Recovery Console.Please note: If the Microsoft Windows Recovery Console is already installed, ComboFix will continue it's malware removal procedures. Once the Microsoft Windows Recovery Console is installed using ComboFix, you should see the following message: Click on Yes, to continue scanning for malware. When finished, it shall produce a log for you. Please include the C: ComboFix.txt in your next reply.
That log looks very good. How is the PC running now? I would like to run an online scan now which will remove any small, irritating items and infected files. I'd like us to scan your machine with ESET OnlineScan. Hold down Control and click on the following link to open ESET OnlineScan in a new window. Click the button.
For alternate browsers only: (Microsoft Internet Explorer users can skip these steps). Click on to download the ESET Smart Installer. Save it to your desktop. Double click on the icon on your desktop. Check.
Click the button. Accept any security warnings from your browser.
Check. Push the Start button. ESET will then download updates for itself, install itself, and begin scanning your computer. Please be patient as this can take some time.
When the scan completes, push. Push, and save the file to your desktop using a unique name, such as ESETScan. Include the contents of this report in your next reply. Push the button. Push Thanks. First of all, thank you for your time and help. I think it runs a bit better although it still has these problems.
Slow boot times In device manager, there is a problem with the SONY DVD+-RW DW-Q58A Drive. The driverhas the yellow exclamation point. I deleted it in device manager, and on reboot it found and installed it but it still has the error. The dvd does't work In Internet explorer, under tools internet options tabs settings, I clicked 'open home page for new tabs instead of blank page', and it stays clicked, but the tab opens a blank page. The scroll feature on the mose pad, quits working after awhile.
Sounds seem to stutter and crackle. I guess these problems maynot be malware issues but hardware software related. I ran the ESET online scanner and no infections were found. It generated no report.
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